Posts Tagged ‘Tutorial’

So, a little tease on the Mechanicus front.  I painted up one of these Forge World beauties for the ever growing army of my friend J.S.  This is quite a nice model with lots of detail to bring the Martian atmosphere to he tabletop.  I stayed with the color scheme of his other Mechanicus pieces.  The result is quite striking I think.


The body and top are monolithic pieces that (in my case) did not align as well as I would like.  I donned a dust mask and wrapped a wooden block wrapped with 400-grit sandpaper to get a flush join.  If you have trouble identifying the surfaces that need sanded, briefly sand one face on the wooden block to get it mostly flat.  Do NOT remove a lot of material at one go.  A half-dozen passes of the block will help get things started.  Then you should rub that face with a pencil  .Press the mating face of the complimentary piece firmly against it.  Look for smudges of transfer to identify the spots on it that need smoothed down.  Repeat while alternating pieces until you get a good join.  Remember to alternate which piece you sand so as not to remove more than absolutely necessary.  This method helps get a tight and flush join without removing too much material or resorting to large amounts of greenstuff plugging.

Assembly is pretty straight forward.  However, with the way the final assembly would hinder painting detail, I did paint the model in assemblies – body, shroud, gears, and sides.  Because of the small number of large pieces and the way that they join, the model required very few pins.  I did go ahead and magnetize the weapons and targeter because the stems seemed a bit fragile for the weight of the model.  Any shift during transport might have snapped them off.  Be careful to ensure the model sits flat when gluing the tracked sections to the body.  I have seen some of these with a terrible wobble to them.

Overall, another fun model from the boys at Forge World.  I’m sure that I’ll be doing more for the Mechanicum.  But, for now, there is a fresh batch of Skitarii sprues waiting to be assembled.  Onward!


Doing the review of Fronltine Gaming’s Blast Zone F.A.T. Mat was great.  I enjoyed playing with and on it.  Luckily for us, the mat’s owner decided that he wanted to get a bunch of terrain matched up for use on his new gaming surface.  I’ve added an article on the build process in the terrain tutorial section.  What do you think of the pieces laid out on their fancy mat?

Make sure you check out pictures of all of the completed terrain pieces in the tutorial.  Spoiler alert!  I also did a couple crashed Dark Eldar Raiders to match the set.

I’ve had some partially finished desert terrain pieces in a box for a long time now.  During a short lull between client projects, I took a couple of afternoons to finish them up and take some pictures of the process.   They are all done now and will be heading to a new home.  I figured rather than just posting a gallery, I’d actually put up a tutorial on the process.  Whether you are looking to create your first battlefield or adding to an existing collection, there should be something for everyone.

If you have checked out the Warhound Titan WiP series or the Stormtalon tutorial, the techniques I use in this terrain tutorial are what I used on those pieces.



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Lots more progress pics to show on Major Mouse – the Skaven Exalted Vermin Lord for LM.  Check the previous posts here and here for more info.


After all of the prep and basing work, painting really begins.  Using a really big dry brush, I built up a couple of layers of gradually lightening flesh tones.  To get a smooth transition, I take the base color and add more and more of what will be the final highlight color into the mix.  I went lighter on the extremities and head than on the body.  The tail get’s an even lighter gradient.

Once I am satisfied with the flesh tones, I put down the base colors for other areas – warpstone, wraps, staff, ruins, other rats.  I tend to paint from the inside out, from dark to light.  This allows me to quickly get the base colors and biggest areas done quickly.  The smaller, more detailed areas are picked out later as I take my time.  This also facilitates cleanup of overbrushing from earlier stages.  Any slop disappears under the paint on things I had not worked on yet.  This drastically cuts down on the amount of tidying up required for the finished piece.

In a slight departure from my usual process, I had not detailed the base of this piece before priming.  Truthfully, the client hadn’t given me much guidance and no extras for detailing so I was kind of up in the air.  I decided to wait until the work had progressed a bit and see what seemed to fit.  What I decided on was a vaguely desert / wasteland color for the basing.  Also, I didn’t want the stone arch to look completely out of context, so I added more rubble.  Blue foam slivers, gravel, and sand would add texture to keep the base from looking like a painted piece of plywood. I painted this basing material with a couple different shades of brown and mustard to add depth before moving on the drybrushed topcoat.  The chunks of rubble and stone were painted to the same degree as the stone arch and will get their highlighting and detailing when it does.

Meanwhile, I have started highlighting the horns, staff, wraps, and warstone chunks.  Also, the flesh surrounding the warpstone is being glazed in layers of green for a directional lighting effect.  i want it to look as if those warpstone chunks piercing the flesh are actually glowing with power  To achieve this effect, the pieces are receiving more extreme highlights than I use on most things.  That technique plus a coat of high gloss at the end of painting will really make these stand out.

Painting the rats on the base is a little tedious but worth some effort.  I used six or seven shades of browns and greys to color the bodies.  I then used the same medium flesh tone that I used on the Vermin Lord for their faces and skin.  Washing all of these little guys with a dirty brown wash (Devlin Mud) added shading and brought out detail as well as toning down any overbright spots.  I want these little guys to tie in well with the big rat, not distract from him.

Work to come will include the loincloth, eyes, stonework, piercings, icons, staff, blades, and final detailing of the base.  This is the home stretch.  Stay tuned.


Here is a quick update on the Skaven Exalted Vermin Lord for Lucas M.  FYI, this is the new Forge World model.


Once the parts are clean and dry, you can start construction.  As with most models, starting with a good foundation is a really good idea.  With as “tippy” as this model can be, attaching the main piece very close to the rear of the base only makes sense.  However, instead of having the model oriented straight on, I opted to angle the body so that the head is looking forward.  The position of the head is turned over one shoulder as if the creature was shifting its attention from the freshly killed corpse at its feet to the next victim in line.  By angling the model this way, the motion just seems more aggressive and natural.  Basing material that I’ll add later should enhance the effect.

I’m pinning all of the major parts of this model as well as pinning it through the base.  These pins are just a little reinforcement against rough handling.  the pieces aren’t heavy enough to require structural pins.  For this reason, I just used a pin vice instead of breaking out my Dremel moto tool.

Despite careful trimming, there are still some significant gaps where the arms attach.  A couple of thin applications of GW’s new liquid Green Stuff is the perfect fix.  The brush on material allows for very organic blending of the repair sites.  Just remember to not leave the bottle open for extended periods.  Your Green Stuff will become very thick and hard to spread if you do.

Now that the prep work is done. a quick, even coat of primer gets the model ready for painting.  i use a “red” primer that is very close to the old Dark Flesh paint that GW had.  It is great for models that will primarily be painted in warm earth tones or red.  Because primer doesn’t always coat evenly, I always apply a wash of the base color – ensuring that all of the under areas missed by the spray are covered.  After this, a dar wash i applied to get the details to pop out.  It is amazing how much more detail you see after this step.

Next time I post on this, there should be quite a bit of painting done.  I have less than a week left to get this finished.

Feel free to post comments or questions above.  Check out this link for the earlier work on this piece.


So, work continues at a furious pace here on the Wild Boar blog.  We’ve gotten so much done that posting hs lagged way behind.  So, in the interest of brevity, I have posted several updates recently and just added them as a separate Part 3 of the Black Templar’s Warhound Titan WIP pages.

There has been no shortage of tips and tricks posted to help you when you decide to field your own massive war machine.  Enjoy and feel free to comment or make suggestions.

The Emperor protects… using REALLY BIG GUNS!


All spiked up and nowhere to play?  Mascara running because Games Workshop doesn’t make terrain for your homicidal beautiful Dark Eldar / Dark Elf army?  Well have no fear.  The Wild Boar Blog is here with a great new tutorial on how to make your own Fields of Dreams Nightmares.

With the arrival of the new 6th edition of Warhammer 40k, terrain will have a great impact on the play of your army.  The game now has provisions for:

  • Buildings – how to damage or destroy them
  • Firing points and arcs of fire
  • Battlements and emplaced weaponry
  • Fortifications and reinforced structures
  • Ruins and battlefield debris plus their gaming effects
  • Forrests, lakes, and rivers with mysterious properties
  • Archeotech and other unique terrain with special features

Pages 88 to 107 in the new rulebook give you the details of these rules along with some inspiring tips on what you might include in your terrain set.  The “Choosing Your Army” section from pages 108 to 131 gives information on how terrain can be included as part of your army list and how to incorporate it into various missions.  Add to these all of the battlefield photos and scenes throughout the book, and you should be able to build quite a wish list for your outpost, lair, or encampment.  Execution is up to you (pun intended).

Since the release of the last Dark Eldar codex, I have built a half-dozen sets of Dark Eldar / Dark Elf terrain for display, Ebay, or commission.  To get a feel for what elements I wanted to include in the pieces, I went to the codex and the miniatures to see what common elements I wanted to carry over.  The curving, spiky nature was what I felt tied everything together best.  So, that’s the theme I went with.

Explore the gallery of Dark Eldar / Dark Elf terrain here or click on the pic for the individual set.


For the full tutorial on how I build pieces suited to your army, click here or on the photo below.

Remember.  If you build it, they will come… and die!


(Note 1 – Page numbers cited above are for the collector’s 6th edition of the Warhammer 40k rulebook.  Numbers may vary from the other printings)

(Note 2 – Yes, I still make this terrain on a commission basis.  You can contact me through the comments or email me at )

So, I have posted my tutorial on how to actually make vac-formed terrain useful – aka durable and attractive.

GW has released a couple of vac-formed terrain kits over the years.  They have had a high cool factor but a low function factor.  Check out the tutorial and I’ll share what I have learned while trying to make the Moonscape and OOP Blastscape terrain kits into something worthy of putting on your tabletop.  These techniques should serve you well not just with the GW pieces but with scratchbuilds or any of the offerings from other makers.  Enjoy!


For my first content transfer I have chosen the Forge World Mars Pattern Warhound titan that I am building for a client.  Jake is an enthusiastic Black Templars player who wants to include a themed titan into his force for Apocalypse games of Warhammer 40k.  He wanted the titan to be painted and themed to match his crusade army.  The thought is that a detachment of these ancient war machines has been seconded to the crusade and have been repainted to reflect their attachment to it.  There will be a lot of details added to the model to give it that Black Templar flavor.

I first started posting a step-by-step “how to” to the 40k Modeling and Painting section of the Lounge at Bell of Lost Souls.  A lot of folks have been following along but have gotten frustrated because my photo hosting site runs out of bandwidth too quickly.  So, without further ado, here’s the link to the Work in Progress coverage of the Black Templar’s Warhound titan.