Khorne “Fiddley-Bit” Bloodslaughterer

Khorne Blood Slaughterer 01 parts

Forge World Khorne Bloodslaughterer

So, this is a really cool model (I don’t care if you don’t like its rules).  Forge World did a great job of incorporating elements of both the Defiler and the Brass Scorpion into this piece. Consistency may be the hobgoblin of little minds but I think it helps to unify the disparate units in a chaos force without them looking like clones.

That said, this is another one of those “highly poseable” models from Forge World that is quite tricky to assemble with any strength and stability.  The full articulation of fairly shallow ball-and-socket joints means that getting all four feet planted fully on the floor are slim.  Most of these that I have encountered on the game tables have wobbled like a drunken sailor.  The inevitable tipping, chipping, and breakage is heartbreaking.  If they would just include a base for the model in the kit a lot of these issues could be easily dealt with.  I’ll get to that in a bit or you can check out my tutorial on making scenic monster bases.

The instructions are the usual – more of a parts list than instructions.  The photos help a little but I found myself doing more experimenting during assembly that I would have thought with a kit of only 28 parts (8 are duplicates).

I considered completing assembly on the piece before painting until I started fitting pieces.  I realized that It would be too easy (for me likely) to mishandle the piece and break something off.  So, sub-assemblies became the order of the day.  I decided on head, body with upper arms, all legs assembled but separate, and the shoulder plates.  The reason for the body and shoulder assembly was so that I could play around with poses using pass-through pins.  These allowed me to swivel and rotate the pieces until I found the exact pose I wanted.  I have highlighted the pin work in some of the pictures below.

Painting was pretty straight forward a I wanted a clean look versus battle worn.  I based the assemblies in flat black and then hit all the metallic areas with a heavy drybrushing.  Warm browns transitioned into a rich red that what highlighter from bright red through orange to an ochre.  A red glaze was added to the armor plates to help blend the colors and add depth.  The silver areas received black and brown washes to give them a darker, oily appearance.  A bright silver was used on the edges to add definition.  Gold areas were painted first in brass, washed with brown, and then highlighted in gold.  The skulls (Khorne, remember?) started off tan and were highlighted with bone and then white.  Cables were painted in muted colors except for a few with danger stripes  Hoses were just washed with even more black.  Two coats of satin spray was used for sealing the paint.


Khorne Blood Slaughterer 23

I really like the overall look.  There is no missing that it is a Khorne unit.  However, without a base, I fear that this would only sit in my display cabinet.  Even with the pins I fear that it may be too fragile for the tabletop.  So, one custom monster-sized base coming up.  Three old compact disks are about the perfect thickness so I scratched up the surfaces and glued them together.  Scratching makes sure that the glue has something to grab on to.  I tore up some sheet cork from the craft store and cut it into pieces that cover most of the base.  White glue is fine for this and a thin layer spread over all the cork surfaces will prevent crumbling later and aid the painting process.  A sprinkling of sand and gravel at this time will also give you a good texture for later painting.  This is also when you would add any equipment, bodies or other battlefield detritus (I didn’t add any this time).  Cork is very spongy and will soak up a lot of paint f it is not sealed.  To simulate lava running through my base I put rivulets of white glue on the exposed surface of the CD base.  This gave me just enough texture to get that thick, gooey consistency for the lava.  After priming black it was just a few more colors and the base was ready to meet its monster.

You can see on the unpainted base in the picture above the points where the “feet” of the Bloodslaughterer will rest.  I marked these and then made small depressions so that they not only keep the piece from rocking; the depth adds to the amount of surface that the glue will cover.  More contact means better adhesion.  I put super glue in the holes and on the “feet” and then mounted the model to the base.  I do avoid glopping a lot of glue on because it vaporizes as it cures.  This can cause a nasty white haze to appear along the joins.  More glue is not better.  More contact between the glued surfaces it the key.

Originally I thought of painting this up in World Eaters Legion colors.  However, having not decided what faction I want to play in the Horus Heresy, I went with the more generic Khorne paint scheme.  Overall, A really fun model to paint.  It has lot of small details that give it character and it is very poseable.  But, like many of these more advanced models, prior planning before you take a single step is the key to a good result.  Poor preparation ruins many a good paint job.  An average paint job on a properly prepared project will stand out.

I hope you found this enjoyable or even educational.  Feel free to comment, make suggestions, or ask questions.

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