Coming Out Of The Shadows – Skaven Exalted Vermin Lord

Posted: August 7, 2012 in Work in Progress
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Skaven Exalted Vermin Lord by Forge World for Lucas M.

I started on this piece for a client a few days ago and though that I would share some of the process and progress.  It is a simple enough kit that a complete tutorial isn’t really necessary.  However, as a long time Skaven player, the model is just too cool not to share.

So, gaze on man-things and lament.  Death-death approaches, it does!


As with any Forge World kit, opening the kit is definitely a rush.  Breaking the seal on the bag, getting that first whiff of resin and mould release, arranging the parts while taking in the intricacies of their detailed bits – these are a few of my favorite things.  Taking stock of the contents, the kit has 7 major pieces plus a sprue of 8 small spines.  The mould lines are few and line up well with detail on the model so cleanup wont be hard.  The caution areas will be on the arms as the gates butt right up to the join, You don’t want to create a large gap.  Also, you may want to leave the spines on their sprue until just before adding them to the model.  They are ridiculously small and easy to lose.

After the parts are removed from their sprues and you have cleaned up any mould lines or flash, the model needs a bath.  Any residual mould release or skin oils from handling will impair glue adhesion slightly and paint adhesion greatly.  Think about trying to paint a teflon coated skillet.  You don’t want to try it.  And even if you succeed, you won’t get a great result.  Just buy a $2 shallow glass bowl.  If you do a lot of kits or strip old models, it’s better to have your own than to keep stealing one from the kitchen.  Fill the bowl with hot (not boiling) soapy water.  Now, wash each item using a soft natural bristle brush and dish soap.  rinse well and then place the pieces into the bowl of water.  Avoid synthetic brushes as they can leave their own residue.  Once all the pieces are clean, set the bowl aside until the water has cooled to room temperature.

Do not immediately remove the parts from the cool water.  Residual soap in the water can adhere to the pieces and prevent proper paint application.  Also, oils released during the soak will now be floating on the top of the water.  Pulling your parts out now could just recoat them in slick stuff.  Set the bowl back in the sink and turn on the faucet to allow the bowl to flush out any remaining soap and or remaining oils.  Once the water runs clear, you can remove your parts and pat them dry with a smooth cloth or soft paper towels.  If you use terry cloth kitchen or bath towels, the loops may snag; breaking off fragile detail.  now set the pieces on another dry cloth and allow them to air dry the rest of the way for a few hours.  You want all of the moisture gone before priming the model.

If you have any pieces that have warped or need reshaped, you can do this while the other pieces set out to dry.  Take a moment to wash out and thoroughly rinse out the bowl you used earlier.  Then fill it with very hot tap water.  Place the piece to be reshaped into the water and allow it to soak for 10 minutes.  Do not use boiling water for this.  While the piece soaks and softens, fill a glass with ice cubes and set it near the sink.  Once the time has elapsed, GENTLY bend the part into the position you desire.  You may have to bend past the actual spot due to the elastic nature of the material.  To quickly set the final position, pour the ice into your bowl to cool the water.  While holding the part in the desired shape, submerge it in the ice bath for two minutes.  Dry the piece as above.  If you find that the piece has not held all of the reshaping, you can repeat this process.  Making several small adjustments is safer than trying to force the piece and having it snap.  Trust me on this.


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